Jahan Chai, Wahan Hum – Urban Repository Archive (URA)

Dhaba Culture

Tea Time is only one link in the long chain of dhabas that have sprouted across Karachi. The pre-1960’s defined dhabas as simply truck stops which were roadside eateries meant for tired, worn-out truckers after long highway journeys. As the fuel industry grew and the facilitation of agricultural produce into Karachi boomed with an escalating populating, truckers were seen as the main clientele of ‘road-side’ dhabas in and around Karachi. But entrepreneurs saw the appeal of dhabas amongst cities where working men and women would be looking for respite akin to our truck-drivers. Dhabas became the answer to where office-goers could stop for an affordable cup of tea near khokas which sell paan and cigarettes. Dhabas are now very common and each neighborhood has numerous dhabas where the lack of pretense becomes the dhabas’ main selling point. The culture of chai quickly became tied to the occasional cigarette break and is coined with the simple colloquial question; ‘Chai sutta karein?’

Could we ever live without tea?

In Pakistan, brands like Tapal and Lipton dominate the tea market, continuing a legacy that traces back to British colonial rule. Tapal, a local brand, was founded in 1947 and has become one of the most recognized names in the country, symbolizing national identity and local preferences . Lipton, on the other hand, is a global giant that entered the Pakistani market as part of the multinational corporations that dominated post-colonial trade. The consumption of tea in Pakistan, therefore, is both a continuation of local tradition and a reflection of global influences, showing how deeply ingrained tea is in both personal and national identities.

Tea imports to Pakistan are significant, with millions of kilograms brought into the country annually to satisfy the immense demand. This reflects how central tea has become to daily life—whether enjoyed at home or at bustling tea spots like *Tea Time*—and how it remains embedded in the country’s social fabric. The story of tea is one of global connections, and in small research efforts like this, we see the everyday manifestation of a beverage that has shaped history, culture, and identity across borders .Through chaiwalas like Noor Agha, we can appreciate the layers of meaning behind each cup of tea, connecting local practices to a global history of colonization, trade, and cultural exchange.

Dhaba furniture

The vivid orange, green and red chairs and tables (which match with the t-shirts on the waiters) are central elements for discussion and gatherings at dhabas such as Tea-Time. The plastic furniture is so light and un-precious that it blurs boundaries between what the street owns and what belongs to the shop, creating a transitional space in the area’s architectural design once they are taken out of their tall stacks and placed around the pathway. This fluid architectural approach supports Tea Time’s hybridity. One is welcome to relax in an open atmosphere opposite a kitchen, a park, a basketball court. Recent anti-encroachment laws established by the Government make this space hard to function, removing chairs and tables from plots where dhabas are established. To encroach, however, means to intrude on territory. Who’s territory is the pavement? It is for the public to use, as is the park and as is Tea Time.

The irreplaceable chai master

During the students field research, they spoke to Noor Agha, the chai master of Tea Time and Fast Food. Giving a demo of how he prepares tea in his utensils, he shared that he serves over 500 cups of chai on weekdays and up to 700 cups on weekends. His ability to serve such a large volume of customers, especially on weekends when the place fills up with people from all walks of life, demonstrates his skill and dedication. As art students, they were forced to recognize the difficult position of undervalued labor in Karachi and how this can trickle down to the ‘craftsman’ versus the ‘artist’. While the other workers primarily serve the customers, Noor Agha is the one responsible for brewing the tea that is the namesake and hallmark of the dhaba.